Discovering History Everywhere

Month: November 2018

Part 2: Adams National Historical Park

The Library at Peace Field

Your cliffhanger resolution has arrived! Sorry everyone for the long absence! I got a little overwhelmed with the holiday and National Novel Writing Month. Last time I left off with me on the trolley to visit John and Abigail Adams’ much more lavish residence, the Old House at Peace field. We arrived just as a rainstorm ended. The driver pulled up outside the stone wall and we walked down to the gate, where another park ranger was waiting for us. Something I forgot to mention before, is that in its entirety, the tour is about 3 hours long. Though I certainly enjoyed it, the tour might be a little long for younger kids. Fortunately, there are the trolley rides as well, so you’re not just in one location for 3 hours.

As we gathered on the porch, a different group filed out which was much larger than ours; I suppose we lucked out! Before we entered the house, the ranger answered any questions we might have starting out. Someone asked about the stone wall in front, which turned out to have been added by a later relation as the town of Quincy grew busier.

When we headed in, we were instructed to look into the room on our left, before entering the dining room on our right. The left room was a mahogany paneled parlor, and was partitioned off. Similarly, the room we were now in was mostly roped off, so that the aging artifacts could be protected.

Something that is unique about the Peace field house is that none of the rooms are arranged for a particular time period. Everything is a conglomeration of the different generations’ possessions. So in this first room, the ranger pointed out to us that the dining room table and chairs set had belonged to John and Abigail. The chairs on either end and the chest standing against one wall were each from successive descendants.

The second room we entered was a parlor that Abigail had requested to be added later on. With higher ceilings and more expensive furniture, this was a room for only adults, modeled after the popular fashions of Europe. Included in the decor were multiple portraits of various Adams family members. Two of them are from the 17th century and are believed to be the earliest surviving portraits painted in the colonies! The set of white, upholstered furniture in the room John had purchased in Europe for one of the U.S. embassies. But he ended up shipping it back for his own use at a later time. Dating from the 1830s, the wallpaper in the parlor is the oldest in the house.

From there, we went upstairs, where we peered over a rope at the study. The room was large, spanning the width of the house. One of the objects inside was a chair covered in floral fabric. We were told that this was the chair John Adams died in on July 4th, 1826, exactly 50 years after the Declaration of Independence was announced. 

The next space we entered was the Presidential Walkway, so named because one of the presidents caused its construction. Before this hallway was built, in order to get from the master bedroom to the study, you either had to go downstairs, cross to the other side of the house, and take another staircase back up, or you had to walk through the guest bedroom. Now John Quincy Adams was in the habit of visiting his study during the night, and he preferred taking the latter route, regardless of whether guests occupied it or not. His wife, Louisa Catherine, disapproved, and suggested the hallway as a means for John Quincy to reach his study with speed. The walkway was built and is filled with bookshelves, which are covered with books.

As we strolled down the passage, we peeked into the various bedrooms. The master was first used by John and Abigail, but when Abigail died, John slept in a different bedroom instead. But the master was utilized again by John Quincy and Louisa. 

At the end of the hallway, we passed through a door. A staircase spiraled up to a third floor where the servants would have lived. John and Abigail were not overly wealthy, but there grandson Charles Francis Adams was. He achieved his riches the old-fashioned way: by marrying into it. He and his wife added on to the house, including the servants quarters for their and their guests’ servants.

Back downstairs, by a different stairway, we emerged in the kitchen. A hodgepodge of appliances and cooking accoutrements from various eras were placed around the room. Along one wall was a row of bells for many rooms that alerted servants to their masters’ needs.

Then we proceeded through a butler’s pantry of sorts that houses many different plates, bowls and serving ware from the Adams family. We then came out into the main hall, where the ranger told us a story of Louisa Catherine. Louisa was disapproved of by her mother-in-law, Abigail. Since Louisa was from England, and was used to high society there, Abigail felt that she was weak and unsuited for the New England life.

Louisa got her chance to prove Abigail wrong. She had been living with her husband John Quincy in Russia while he was a delegate there. However, John was asked to go to France. John believed his stay would be temporary, and left Louisa and their son in Russia. When it became apparent that John would be staying, he asked Louisa to sell their house, pack up their belongings and come to him on the other side of Europe.

But John didn’t consider that the journey would be through a wintry, currently war-torn Europe. Louisa made the trip nonetheless, using her french to get them through a sticky situation with opposing military forces. After that, she always had Abigail’s respect.

After John Adams time, a library was constructed on the estate. The building was made with stone to ensure that the books would be safe from the threat of fire. The construction is beautiful, and is filled with tomes from top to bottom. There are books in many languages including the 5 different ones that John Quincy could read!

All in all, the Adams family were a unique and interesting group who were formative in the establishment and development of the early United States. I would definitely recommend visiting, though make sure your directions are correct! While you’re impatiently waiting for the historic homes to reopen this spring, check out the link below, where you can peek into a few rooms on your own. Till next week!

Adams National Historical Park - Google Arts & Culture

ADAMS NHP provides "an extraordinary window into the personal lives of two presidential families; early American literature, education and intellectual lif...

Adams National Historical Park

This site is actually situated in three different locations around the historic town of Quincy, Mass. With its aging saltbox houses, this park is one that I’ve been interested in for years. In 7th grade, I preformed a monologue based from one of Abigail Adams’ letters to John Adams. I was intrigued by the letters’ truthful descriptions of everyday 18th century life, including smallpox inoculations, to significant events, such as accounts of the Declaration of Independence being announced. How cool to be able to see where these intriguing people lived!

Throughout his life, John Adams wished to be back home with his family at his humble, peaceful farm. Now the public can visit that place as well. My dad and I drove over to see it before the historic houses closed for the season on November 11th. The visitor center does remain open during the winter, but I would recommend going when the houses are open, as they are the main attraction.

We followed our GPS to the John Adams and John Quincy Adams Birthplaces. However, when we stepped inside, a park ranger informed us that we were welcome to join this tour, but the experience is better if you start at the visitor center. A trolley will take you from there to the birthplaces, and then the second stop at Peacefield estate. 

We decided to drive to the visitor center so that everything would be in order. Getting there proved a little frustrating, even though it is close by. I would make sure that you are getting directions for the Adams National Historical Park Visitor Center, not the Presidential Birthplaces.

Once there, we arrived about 20 minutes before the 1:15pm tour. For some reason, the fee was waived that day, but according to the website, it’s usually $15 per person over the age of 16. A video was playing, giving an overview of the four generations of Adams that lived in these houses. Unfortunately, we weren’t quite able to finish it before the trolley arrived.

Taking the trolley, we were back at the birthplaces in less than 10 minutes. A park ranger met us outside the buildings, introduced himself, and gave a brief intro to the houses. In short, most of the houses’ original structure has been replaced over the years. They still stand on their original, 17th century foundations.

The John Quincy Adams house does have two 17th century floorboards and the John Adams house has one 17th century ceiling beam. The most recent major restoration was in the 1980s when the properties were transferred to the Park Service. Shingles were replaced in 2013, and are the newest repair to the houses.

Once the ranger answered our questions, we trooped into the John Adams Birthplace, whose outside slats are stained dark brown. Inside, there isn’t a lot of furniture. When it was used by the Adams, there would have been a few more tables and chairs, but not too much more.

John Adams’ father, Deacon John Adams, was a farmer, but followed his family’s tradition of educating the eldest son. Beginning at the age of 10, the Deacon attempted to start John’s education, but John wasn’t interested. The Deacon let it slide until John turned 14, at which time he insisted that his son take studying seriously. John bargained that he would obey as long as he could have a new teacher, which he was allowed. 

John’s love for learning exploded after that. He attended Harvard starting at the age of 16, as he was able to pass the entrance exam and pay for tuition. Once he graduated in 1755, he attempting teaching for a year, but discovered that the career was not for him. By the end of the year, he was having students teach the class, and skipping out to attend court sessions. Once his year was completed, he worked under attorney James Putnam and soon passed the 18th century equivalent of the bar exam himself.

Back near Quincy, John was getting to know Abigail Smith. Though it was by no means love at first sight, they began writing letters back and forth discussing philosophy.

John’s father died in 1761, and John inherited one of the houses, along with 10 acres of land. His brothers both inherited significantly more land than John, as their father expected them to make a living from the land and John was to make a living from the education the Deacon gave him. This division was one reason John called his father the most honest man he knew.

John and Abigail were married in October 1764, and moved into the farmhouse where John Quincy Adams would be born. On the tour, we headed over this tan-painted house, perhaps 30 feet away.

This house was similar inside. One of the rooms was set up as John Adams would have used it as his law office. A replica of his desk stands in one corner. All of the furniture in these buildings are replicas; originals that survive are located at Peacefield.

For much of the time John and Abigail were based here Abigail ran the farm. As John became more and more involved in the colonial government, he was gone for long stretches of time. Later, John was sent to help negotiate a treaty with France. He took his son, John Quincy Adams, with him.

I do have a small correction though. In answer to questions from other visitors, the park ranger confirmed that people were definitely shorter back then, and that is one of the reasons for low doorways, etc. He did state that the other reason would be for heat conservation. However, I just recently heard it reiterated that it is not necessarily true that people of the past were shorter. For starters, George Washington was 6’4″! Height depends on how well multiple generations have been fed. In the American colonies, food was readily available and had been, in Britain, for years, so height would have been very similar to ours now.

After a rapid tour of the two homes in half an hour, the trolley arrived to bring us to our next stop. We hopped on, and were whisked past the visitor center to Peacefield. Peacefield is the house and property that John and Abigail purchased when they returned from living in Europe’s opulence. When they were planning on coming back, their quaint farmhouse no longer seemed to meet their needs.

Next week I’ll finish the visit by detailing our tour through Peacefield, which is definitely the property that the Park Service focuses on.

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