What comes to mind when you think of New Jersey? If its stereotype of cement, factories, smoke, and chainlink fences appears, you’re not alone. I had an opportunity this past October, to discover that, although those gray places do exist, they’re by far not the only things this Mid-Alantic state has to offer.
You may also be wondering what or who ALHFAM is. They are the Association for Living History, Farm, and Agricultural Museums, and in October they put on a skills workshop for anyone whose interest was piqued (though I must say the majority of attendees were museum professionals). Upon registering, we were offered a selection of intriguing workshops, ranging from how to butcher a pig, to incorporating STEM into museum programming. For housing, we agreed on the option of sleeping at one of the host museums to save a few dollars!
With the prospect of new connections and unique skill acquisitions ahead, my mom and I set off south, making our way down through Connecticut and New York. Our destination lay right in the midst of Trenton, at the Old Barracks Museum. We arrived just after the first workshop had commenced (thanks a lot commuters!)
Meeting in an upstairs room of the historic barracks building, our presenter, Dr. Richard Hunter, began his Urban Archaeology Tour with an overview of the significance of Trenton and major changes it has undergone.
Starting with the building we sat in, he explained that it was originally constructed with a view of the river, on the edge of town, out of locally quarried stone. The barracks’ purpose was to serve as a soppy base for the frontiers during the French and Indian War as well as house traveling soldiers. This last duty was demanded by fed-up residents who were sick and tired of providing room and board to any military force passing through.
Now I mentioned that it was originally built with a water view. No, the trees haven’t blocked it all. The river has actually been filled in, so that its banks are now on the other side of a highway that sits near the Old Barracks. In many places around the city, it’s difficult to picture how 18th century citizens viewed the landscape.
One example of the phenomenon is Mill Hill Park, where the mill and its remnants can be hard to spot. Years ago, most of what is now the park was covered in water and acted as the mill pond. As you cross over a nearby bridge, you can spy the old foundation work of the mill, along with the bed of the Assunpink Creek it sat by.
As we moved on, our guide pointed out an old yellow house, called the Alexander Douglass House. This place has been moved around the town three times over the years, to the point that its historical integrity is sadly diminished. Its claim to fame is that George Washington used the building as his headquarters for the Second Battle of Trenton, and then held his council of war there before the Battle of Princeton. However, at this point, the Douglass House is not being used for much, and we didn’t go inside.
Just down the street, an old Quaker Meeting House sits next to the street, with a small burial ground attached. As one of the three historic buildings in the city, it was occupied by Redcoats and Hessians (German mercenaries) during the Revolution.
One thing about Trenton that I’d like to inject is that there are beautiful murals scattered over the city. They add a splash of color and interest to some of the duller streets. Elia Barga is one of the muralists, and painted a commemoration of the Revolution on a large canvas which was then hung on a structure in town.
Passing the Delaware & Raritan (D&R) Canal on our way to the Battle Monument, we stopped to learn about the unassuming waterway. Established in the 1830’s, the canal is actually still in use today! With a width of 13 feet, the canal has no lifts, but a few locks along its length. The canal acted as a thoroughfare for coal originally, but is now one of New Jersey’s water supplies. In addition, 60-plus miles of the canal and the strips of land on either side are now designated as the D&R Canal State Park, open for hiking, biking, and boating.
At the apex of a slight hill, and the convergence of five roads, sits an imposing monument to the Battles of Trenton. The Redcoats set up cannons on this location, and the Patriots used the multiple roads to cut off the Hessians’ escape. On top of the thick pillar, which was dedicated in the 1980s, stands George Washington. Though there used to be tours of the structure, including a ride on an ancient elevator to the top. No staff are stationed there now, and unfortunately, tours are difficult to hear because of traffic.
The Battle of Trenton occurred on December 26th, 1776, and was a turning point of the war. Prior to that, the Continental army had not been doing well. Some Patriots took oaths of loyalty to the crown, hoping to prevent punishment if the colonies lost. However, when the Whigs starting winning again, these oaths were soon thrown in the fire. Makes you wonder how loyal they really felt.
We made our way back towards the Old Barracks then, going by St. Mary’s Convent as well. This church was closed after the Declaration of Independence was announced: the congregation split and the structure was utilized at one point for soldiers’ quarters. And if you’re into random ties to famous figures, the church’s graveyard includes the body of Napoleon Bonaparte’s older brother’s mistress. Now that’s a stretch.
As we walked through the streets, Dr. Hunter pointed out a low spot in the city, where the stream Petty’s Run was located. In the 1880s and 90s a sewer system was put in place, erasing the original waterway.
Back behind the Old Barracks lies an unfinished park. Part of it is blockaded off, with plans to improve it still in place. But one section revolves around an archaeological dig that was completed on the site. The finds have been left uncovered, revealing the foundations of buildings from several eras. You can view the outline of the old plating mill, which became a blacksmith shop; there’s also a steel furnace that was one of five in the colonies in the 1750’s. A paper mill and houses complete the dig’s findings.
As you may have noticed, the anniversary of the first Battle of Trenton just passed. In commemoration, the city of Trenton holds Patriots’ Week every December. This year the festivities go through the 26th – 31st. Battle reenactments, a colonial ball, historic walking and bus tours, and much more are taking place across the city.
Throughout our two days in Trenton, I was continually surprised by the our experience. From sleeping in the Old Barracks’ beds, to eating a delicious meal from 1911 Smokehouse Bar-B-Que, to a scenic drive over to the Washington Crossing State Park. If you’ve never been to New Jersey, try it out!